How to make basic Surfboard repairs

Using SunCure™ Fiberfill resin

Make sure you know what resin your board is made with. There are 2 types Polyester or Epoxy. We have both types of repair kits here. ​

  • Remove all moisture, loose particles and dirt from the repair area.
  • Rough sand the surrounding area to allow resin a secure bond.
  • In the shade, apply the needed amount of Sun Cure™ to the repair with an application stick. Make sure to work out any air bubbles and form the resin to the repair.
  • For flat surface or rail dings apply the clear plastic cover sheet over the resin to mold the surface and create a no-sand finish. (Note: Make sure to tape each side of the cover sheet to hold in place.)
  • Expose the repair to sunlight (If you can see a shadow, Sun Cure™ will work).
Bright Sun: Gel 15 seconds – Full cure 4 to 6 minutes Partial Sun: Gel 25 seconds – Full cure 6 to 8 minutes Light Overcast: Gel 45 seconds – Full cure 12 to 20 minutes
  • Make sure resin has completely hardened before removing the plastic coversheet or sanding. Sun Cure™ has a tack-free surface that will allow an easy sand finish.
​ When using Sun Cure™ in intense summer sun, thick repairs may need to be taken in and out of the sun every minute to avoid excessive heat build-up to avoid cracking



Using Q-CELL filler

When added to polyester or epoxy resin, Q-CELL filler thickens the resin to make it more workable and expands it to fill in large areas. This expansion reduces the amount of resin required therefore reducing weight. (Note: Q-CELL is only a filler and should be sealed with a coat of resin before use). The following lists instructions for using Q-CELL filler: - ​

  • Estimate needed resin and mix in hardener.
  • Add Q-CELL to resin in small amounts until desired consistency is reached. (For best results, a medium paste is recommended, avoid adding too much Q-CELL to the resin mixture or it will be too thick to apply.)
  • Stir resin until Q-CELL is completely saturated.
  • Apply mixture to the repair.



Minor Dings

There are two basic types of minor dings, punctures and fractures. These dings may occur on your board’s nose, tail, rail, or flat surfaces. Small punctures can easily be repaired with Sun Cure™ fiberfill resin or epoxy putty or with regular polyester resin by following these easy steps: - ​ Materials: - Resin and hardener, fiberglass, masking tape, sandpaper, cover sheet, mixing cups, mixing sticks, and plastic gloves. ​ Tools: - Scissors, sander ​

  • Dry and clean fracture, light sand the area about 1/4” around the fracture. Cut or grind away any broken fibers to create a void to be filled. For larger fractures requiring cloth laminations, size and cut cloth before mixing resin.
  • For taping flat surface and rail dings, tape around the sanded area to prevent resin form spreading. Nose and tail dings require taping under one side to mate the shape of the missing piece – multiple pieces of tape might be needed. Although the resin mixture will be thick, the tape will hold the resin in place around the broken or fractured part and will act as a mold eliminating extensive sanding and shaping.
  • For mixing, first estimate the amount of resin needed to fill the ding. Use scissors and chop thin pieces of cloth, (about 1/8” pieces) and add to the resin. The cloth will make the resin very workable and will provide needed strength. Using an adequate mixing cup, estimate resin and add hardener. Once mixed, slowly stir the chopped cloth into the resin (don’t add too much).
  • To apply resin on flat surfaces and rail dings, use a mixing stick and work out any air bubbles. A plastic or wax paper cover sheet is applied over the surface of the repair to mold a smooth surface. On rail dings, tape down each end of the cover sheet to hold it in place. Do not remove the cover sheet until the resin has completely hardened. Check the hardening progress by looking at the leftover resin in your mixing cup. Once dry, slowly peel off the cover sheet. If sanding is needed, start by using a medium grit sandpaper. Keep the sanding surface flat and avoid excessive, uneven sanding. Following initial sanding, use fine (wet/dry) sandpaper. To match a gloss finish, polish the repair after wet sanding.



Delamination

Delamination is when fiberglass cloth becomes separated from the foam on your board and occurs mainly where your feet apply pressure to the board’s surface. Detected by soft, hollow sections, delamination will quickly crack and absorb water causing the foam in your board to discolor and rot if left alone. Delamination can easily be repaired by following these steps: - ​

  • Gather your materials and tools: resin and hardener, drill with 1/8” bit, wax paper, weight (slightly larger than repair area) and a Ding All® Delamination Repair Bottle.
  • Prepare your board. Remove all wax and dirt. Drill two holes at opposite ends of the repair. Squeeze all of the moisture out of the repair and lay the board flat.
  • Mix: Estimate enough resin to fill less than half of the delamination. Pour the resin into the bottle, add hardener, replace cap and shake.
  • Apply the resin by squeezing into each hole leaving room for compression. Place wax paper over the top of the repair and add weight to flatten.
  • Once dry, remove the weight and wax paper. If resin leaked out, sand the area.



Broken Fins

Replacing or repairing a fin begins with having the proper materials on hand – especially while traveling. Knowledge of repairing fins can salvage a surf trip! If a fin has stress cracks that have not broken through, or is not loose, do not attempt to repair it. ​ First, gather your tools and materials: resin and hardener, fiberglass cloth, fin rope, masking tape, sandpaper, rubber or plastic gloves, acetone, spare fins. If needed: mixing cups, mixing sticks, scissors, sanding wheel or sander, paint brush, hot glue gun – optional.

  • Preparation: broken fins require grinding or removing any broken fibers to the foam to provide a void to be replace by a new layer of fin rope and cloth. Once the particles are removed, clean and sand the surrounding surface. Apply masking tape around the sanded edges of the repair to prevent excess resin buildup. Align the fin by matching it to the opposite fin. Trailing fins are set straight and stand vertical.
  • Once aligned, the fin must be taped in place. Apply a piece of masking tape across the top of the fin and attach to each rail while holding the fin in place. Adjust by pulling on tape.
  • Each damaged side of a fin must be replaced by one piece of fin rope, extending 1” past the front and back, and two oval patches of 4 or 6 ounce cloth covering the base and side of the fin. Cut the second patch larger to overlap the first patch when applied.
  • To apply, in one step, mix the estimated amount of resin and saturate the fin rope. Use gloves and squeeze excess resin out. Then, apply along the base of the fin. Place the first fiberglass patch over the fin rope, overlapping the base and the side of the fin and brush on resin. Once saturated, apply the second patch to overlap the first and brush on resin.
  • Sanding: Once dry, follow sanding instructions. The use of a foam backed sanding wheel quickens this step. Monitor the strength of the repair during sanding, weak areas might need to be recovered with more layers of cloth.



Replacing Fins

  • Similar to repair, replacing fins begins with a flat surface. First, remove any broken fibers with a sanding wheel. Clean and sand the repair surface. Use filler (Q-CELL or Fiberglass Filler) and fill any holes. Let dry and sand flat.
  • Align the fins to be tacked on. Place a mark where the front and back of the fin should be (Note: refer to opposite fin or similar board for alignment). Tack the fin in place by using a hot glue gun. If tacking with resin apply tape across the top of fin and attach to each rail to hold in place once resin is applied.
  • Once tacked in place, repeat the same preparation and glassing process in the broken fin section above.
  • Gather your tools and materials: resin and hardener, fiberglass cloth, tape, plastic gloves, squeegee, acetone, mixing cup, mixing sticks, filler, sander (flat or disc), scissors, 4 wood splints 20” long 1“x 2”, paint brush, saw horse or equivalent.
  • Preparation: both broken ends must be cleaned free of dirt wax and moisture. Place the largest section horizontally and attach the four splints with masking tape – two on the top and two on the bottom. Position each splint half way over the break and space each about 12 to 14 inches apart. The splints will guide and hold the broken pieces while being tacked together ( note: the splints might need to be wedged to match the surfboard’s rocker).



Need more advice?

No worries, we are happy to help! Drop us an email :- info@eastcoastsurf.co.uk Or use our chat window ---------->



 

How to Apply a Traction Pad

Choose the right traction for your board

• Narrow Board = Narrow Pads
• Standard width = Standard Pads
• Wide Board/Fish = Wide pad Varying the gaps between pad pieces will also further widen your traction as needed – ie. Spread the traction out for a wider board.



Ensure the board is clean

Many board manufacturers use products like ‘Mr Sheen’ to give boards a polished showroom finish that needs to be removed with acetone and/or sandpaper before sticking a grip to it.



Arrange traction to perfect your layout before removing the adhesive

Where should your back foot go? Optimal position is all about your personal preference – but we recommend to centre the pad above the front and back fin bases which will help ensure the best foot placement and give the most control when you surf.



Use the stringer line to locate the centre of the board

Or measure with a ruler for boards without visible stringers. In many cases the leg-rope plug can be used to double check the layout – I put the semi circle of my pad around 1cm from the plug – which ensures the pad is a good distance back – but with twinny’s and other alternative surf craft the leg-rope plug may be asymmetrically placed or further forward that usual – so keep this in mind. You can use a pencil to mark the proposed position if you need to.



Peel off 3m adhesive starting with the centre piece

Then sides – ensuring even gaps on each side – unless you really want to flare out your ride. Fan out further for wider tails – bring in closer for narrow tails.



Apply pressure to work out any air bubbles

Paying particular attention to edges, arch area and kick. Ideally wait 24 hours for maximum glue adhesion before surfing.



Same basic rules apply for a front deck grip

Though here you will need to work out your own stance width to get everything in the right place – either by standing next to the board assuming the position or even line up using and older board so you can copy the approx. front foot location.



How to choose the right leash

Length of the leash

It is really important to choose the right length for your leash. If you end up buying a long leash then it will not only add extra drag but it will also hold you back and prevent you from catching waves. On the other hand, buying a short one can cause you serious injury as it generally gets tethered very close to the surfboard allowing the board to bounce back and hit you. As a result, the board and the surfer (you) can cross paths during a nasty wipeout. Our Recommendation: We always suggest to our customers to choose a surf leash that is either equal to or slightly longer than the length of their surfboard.



Thickness of the leash

Choosing the right thickness for the leash is also very vital and you have to do it wisely based on the environmental condition where you generally go out for surfing. Lets suppose you are going out in larger surf, then you would want to get a thicker leash chord as they are more durable and can resist more powerful waves. You can also choose a thin leash as it will cause you less drag and you will be able to catch more waves and go quicker. The size of your board also plays an influential role in deciding the suitable thickness for your leash. Our Recommendation: We suggest you to buy thin leashes if you are using a small board and going in small to medium size surf. Consider using a thick leash if you are using a heavier and bigger board and going out in medium to large surf. You will find plenty of leashes for sale in our store but choose the thinner one if you plan to participate on a competition as it will allow you to catch more waves and enable you to show your skills. Opt for a thicker one if you are looking for a durable solution in larger and more powerful surf.



Skill level

You must also consider your skill before buying a leash. Read below our recommendation when choosing the leash that will suit your surfing need. Our Recommendation: A beginner should buy a longer and thinner leash. A longer leash decreases the chances of getting hit by their surfing board during a nasty fall. A thicker one will enable you to survive the rough waves. So if you are a beginner now you know which surf leashes are suitable for you. If you are not, then you are already well aware of the fact that a thin and shorter leash is perfect for you. By following these tips you will be able to choose the right leash for you. If you still need any additional support then feel free to contact us. Our customer support team will be happy to help you - info@eastcoastsurf.co.uk



How to Wax a Surfboard

Choose the right traction for your board

• Narrow Board = Narrow Pads
• Standard width = Standard Pads
• Wide Board/Fish = Wide pad Varying the gaps between pad pieces will also further widen your traction as needed – ie. Spread the traction out for a wider board.



Ensure the board is clean

Many board manufacturers use products like ‘Mr Sheen’ to give boards a polished showroom finish that needs to be removed with acetone and/or sandpaper before sticking a grip to it.



Arrange traction to perfect your layout before removing the adhesive

Where should your back foot go? Optimal position is all about your personal preference – but we recommend to centre the pad above the front and back fin bases which will help ensure the best foot placement and give the most control when you surf.



Use the stringer line to locate the centre of the board

Or measure with a ruler for boards without visible stringers. In many cases the leg-rope plug can be used to double check the layout – I put the semi circle of my pad around 1cm from the plug – which ensures the pad is a good distance back – but with twinny’s and other alternative surf craft the leg-rope plug may be asymmetrically placed or further forward that usual – so keep this in mind. You can use a pencil to mark the proposed position if you need to.



Peel off 3m adhesive starting with the centre piece

Then sides – ensuring even gaps on each side – unless you really want to flare out your ride. Fan out further for wider tails – bring in closer for narrow tails.



Apply pressure to work out any air bubbles

Paying particular attention to edges, arch area and kick. Ideally wait 24 hours for maximum glue adhesion before surfing.



Same basic rules apply for a front deck grip

Though here you will need to work out your own stance width to get everything in the right place – either by standing next to the board assuming the position or even line up using and older board so you can copy the approx. front foot location.



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